17. 3. 2000

THE FIVE FACES OF THE ŠUMAVA MOUNTAINS

Šumava is magical.

You can meet devils and other evil spirits near the Devil's Lake (Čertovo jezero), at the foot of the Hamižná Hill near Hartmanice you can get a treasure of gold from the good spirit named Dopřej or be punished by the dwarf Trestej for your greediness. In the woods surrounding the Kašperk Castle you can bump into Swiza, an old, hunched woman covered in fur of wolves with antlers on her head, and get petrified by her...





Šumava is sad.

Šumava, once called rather Böhmerwald, misses its people. The Jews were killed during the WWII and the German peasants, woodworkers and glass-blowers expelled after its end. The absence of the original inhabitants of Šumava and their descendants is still obvious. The sides of the Křemelná Hill - once full of houses of Přední, Prostřední and Zadní Paště or Stodůlky - are now empty. Only wild fruit trees, small chapels and information boards for tourists let you know there had once lived and worked people for generations.



Šumava is loved by writers.
Šumava has inspired writers from here and there for centuries. They glorified and praised it, they worshiped and invoked it in their poems and novels. They described its good and also its evil face. In the middle part of Šumava Karel Klostermann is nowadays nearly omnipresent. There are trails, cottages and viewing points named after him. Even a beer brand. Almost all of the German writing authors are forgotten. They chose the wrong language...




Šumava is spiritual.
The spiritual power of Šumava was discovered already more than a thousand years ago by a Bavarian nobleman called Gunter. After years of comfortable life and diplomatic work he retreated to a monastery and later to a hermitage on the top of the Březník Hill near Hartmanice. Until now there is a chapel and a rock named after him. Gunter's or Vintíř's rock has had a special spiritual power. No doubt Gunter has in fact never left this place...




Šumava is captivating.
The peaks of Šumava are not as majestic as the ones of the Alps or as pointy as the ones of the High Tatra. The peaks of Šumava are green, rounded and covered with woods. In spite of this, Šumava is captivating. It gets the heart of a wanderer thanks to its silence, mysteriousness, dramatic history and quite hopeful future. Šumava is a place which leaves a deep footprint in a wanderer's soul. Šumava is a place to return to...

jrm

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